RICHMOND, Va. -- This dynamic city on the James River deserves more of the tourist attention enjoyed by the nation’s capital two hours to the north.
Richmond, Virginia — or “RVA,” as locals call it — has top-notch museums and intriguing neighborhoods, and it’s a great spot for dining, drinking, and getting outdoors. There’s an impressive arts scene and a nearly year-round lineup of festivals.
And the city is taking a hard look at its complicated history — as the capital of the Confederacy during the Civil War and a historic slave trading hub — and working on ways to better tell the city’s full story.
Now’s a great time for visitors to see for themselves how Virginia’s capital city has evolved.
Fine food and beverages
A thriving food scene is a must for any vibrant US city – and Richmond delivers with diverse flavors and a high concentration of black-owned restaurants.
Chef Michael Lindsey and his wife, Kimberly Love-Lindsey, opened their first restaurant – Lillie Pearl – in 2020, mid-pandemic. The restaurant blends West African heirloom ingredients, Southern African-American cuisine, and a range of global influences.
Lindsey Food Group followed Lillie Pearl by opening two locations of fried chicken fast-casual spot Buttermilk and Honey, and it has added several more restaurants to the portfolio, including modern Chophouse ML Steak downtown and in Chesterfield. Kali Love, a California fusion concept, just opened in June.
Global cuisine is evident all over town, from the deliciously messy birria tacos at Maya Latin Kitchen to Afghan fine dining at The Mantu.
Discover Richmond Tours offers a handful offood tours that offer visitors a great way to maximize their options and explore the city’s neighborhoods at the same time.
The beverage scene is also booming.
Scott Jones, co-owner of Triple Crossing Beer, has been part of Richmond’s rise as a beer destination, thanks in part to the city’s extensive Beer Trail, which features more than 30 craft breweries. Since opening the first of three locations in 2014, Jones has witnessed a transformation of the local culture.
“The food scene, the arts scene, music and beer – they have a symbiotic relationship, and over the years they have melded together and blossomed to help make Richmond a place for people to come visit,” he says.
“We set a high standard for breweries,” says beer columnist Annie Tobey, author of “100 Things to Do in Richmond Before You Die.” “RVA has so many quality breweries that represent a wide range of styles.”
Scott’s Addition, a trendy neighborhood that has been designated Richmond’s “craft beverage capital,” is home to a collection of breweries, including Väsen and The Veil.
The surrounding region is also home to numerous wineries. For sophisticated sips without the buzz there’s Floris, Richmond’s new bespoke tearoom at the renowned Virginia Museum of Fine Arts. (Among the museum’s highlights: the largest collection of Fabergé eggs outside of Russia).
And for the coffee-inclined, Urban Hang Suite is serving up more than your average latte. Kelli Lemon, co-owner of the Richmond Black Restaurant Experience, opened the café six years ago as a community gathering and networking space. Lemon’s company is aimed at supporting black-owned culinary brands.
EAT IT, VIRGINIA restaurant news and interviews
Busy neighborhoods full of history
Lively neighborhoods make up Richmond’s center, each contributing to the character of the city. Richmond is also home to more than 150 murals, part of an explosion of dynamic street art around town.
Known for its cobblestone streets, Shockoe Slip in southeastern downtown features contemporary restaurants and historic architecture bordered on the south by the James River. Just to the east, one of Richmond’s oldest neighborhoods, Shockoe Bottom, holds centuries of history that the city is working to highlight (more on those plans below).
Today, the neighborhoods offer a variety of bars, entertainment venues and historical sites, including a museum dedicated to onetime Richmond resident Edgar Allan Poe as well as markers along the Richmond Slave Trail, a self-guided walking route that tells the somber history of slavery in the city.
The downtown core is home to business and government buildings, including the Virginia State Capitol, and the American Civil War Museum.
One of the museum’s three sites, the American Civil War Museum at Historic Tredegar, currently features “The Impending Crisis,” an exhibit that explores the division of the United States on the verge of the Civil War. Guided tours are offered of the 1818 White House of the Confederacy, another unit of the museum located in the Court End neighborhood.
While Richmond’s Civil War history is well known, the city also played a role in the American Revolutionary War. Patrick Henry, a Founding Father and Virginia’s first post-colonial governor, gave his famous “Give me liberty … or give me death” speech in 1775 at Historic St. John’s Church in Church Hill.
North of the city center, Jackson Ward, once called the Harlem of the South, is a vibrant cultural hub that is home to the Black History Museum & Cultural Center of Virginia. The exhibit “Virginia is for Music Lovers: A History of Virginia’s Black Excellence in Music” opened at the museum recently.
West of downtown, the Fan District on the edge of Virginia Commonwealth University campus is known for beautiful Victorian architecture, tree-lined streets, trendy cafes and upscale shops. Art lovers will enjoy the four galleries and rotating common spaces at Institute for Contemporary Art at VCU, which is free and open to the public
Farther west, the Museum District features most of the area’s major museums, including the renowned Virginia Museum of Fine Arts and the Virginia Museum of History & Culture.
Just south of the Museum District, Carytown — Richmond’s “mile of style” — is known for specialty shops, restaurants and the historic Byrd Theatre, a “grand movie palace” that dates to 1928 and still shows a range of films.
Across the James River from downtown, up-and-coming Manchester is known today for its industrial-chic vibe, art studios and scenic views of the river and downtown skyline. The Richmond Slave Trail starts here at the Manchester Docks.
A hard look at the past
In northeast Richmond, the statues of Jefferson Davis, Robert E. Lee, and other Confederate leaders that once lined Monument Avenue have been removed.
Once home to more Confederate statues than any US city, their removal amid protests against racial injustice beginning in 2020 has been part of the city’s reckoning with the long and complicated shadow the Civil War and slavery cast over Richmond’s reputation.
“Their removal has been part of a broader effort to engage with the city’s complex history,” says Carla Murray, director of marketing communications for Richmond Region Tourism. “The history is controversial, but we are committed to telling the full story.”
The monuments were transferred to the care of the Black History Museum & Cultural Center of Virginia, with oversight by the Valentine Museum.
One of the statues is on display at the Valentine.
The Jefferson Davis statue — the work of sculptor Edward Valentine, the museum’s first president — was erected on Monument Avenue in 1907. The sculpture is covered in paint and displayed tipped over on its side, as it was when it was toppled by protesters in June 2020. The Valentine family pushed the “Lost Cause” myth reframing the Civil War, which is the subject of a new exhibit.
The Shockoe neighborhoods downtown are the focus of the The Shockoe Project, a City of Richmond effort to bring greater emphasis to the story of enslavement with numerous planned sites, including a National Slavery Museum.
The city still has work to do in sharing a new story with would-be visitors, says Lemon, of the Richmond Black Restaurant Experience, who also sits on the board of Virginia Tourism Corporation.
“I truly want people to visit this area, but you’re going to have to take the old way of thinking out if you want to enjoy this city. In the years since ‘RVA’ became an official brand … the community has worked to change the narrative,” says Lemon, referring to the successful RVA rebranding push launched more than a dozen years ago.
Lemon hopes that while taking in the city’s history, visitors will also come to know RVA as the center of diversity, entrepreneurship and creativity that it is.
Outdoor entertainment
That human creativity is joined by the city’s natural assets and appetite for fun.
Nature lovers will adore Maymont, a sprawling 100-acre Victorian estate and public park that sits along the James River. Maymont plans to unveil its Virginia Wildlife Trail in fall 2024, which will more cohesively and accessibly connect trails winding through the habitats of 300+ native and domestic animals and add facilities that present educational programming.
Not far from Maymont, the gorgeous 50-acre Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden will soon celebrate its 40th anniversary with a major renovation.
The city’s diverse festival season is nearly year-round. The 20th Richmond Folk Festival, one of Virginia’s largest events, runs from September 27-29. On August 11, nearly 100,000 attendees will flock to the Carytown Watermelon Festival, Virginia’s largest single-day festival for music, a vibrant summer atmosphere, and, of course, watermelon.
RVA’s beloved Minor League baseball team, the Flying Squirrels, is gearing up for a new 10,000-seat stadium expected to open in 2026. In the meantime, games are played at The Diamond, the city’s baseball home since 1985.
And opening in the summer 2025, the 7,500-seat Riverfront Amphitheater will be a four-acre, open-air venue with stunning views of the downtown skyline and the James River.
The river offers plenty of recreation opportunities on its own. The 600-acre James River Park system features more than 20 miles (32 kilometers) of trails and water activities, including rare urban Class IV white water rapids.
“It is simply amazing,” says Tobey. “You can be on the trails or paddling the rapids, and when you’re done, you can be at a great restaurant in 10 minutes.”
That easy hop from one interesting spot to the next is just one more reason to head to Richmond right now.
Here is the full CNN Travel List:
CNN Travel tapped into its network of contributors for nominations for our inaugural list of America’s Best Towns to Visit, evaluated their favorites, and winnowed the finalists to 10 by looking at each town’s attractions, food and beverage offerings, nightlife and cultural scene, sense of identity, proximity to other interesting spots and wow factor. They also looked at travel essentials, including lodging options and the ease of getting there and around. Choices range in size from about 50,000 residents to about 225,000.
10. Duluth, Minnesota
High scores: Cool lakeside setting, outdoor activities, beverage scene
A small city best known over the years as an industrial, ore-shipping port on the Great Lakes, Duluth is now gaining a reputation as a refuge from the climate crisis. Its summers are typically quite temperate thanks to its setting alongside Lake Superior. The hilly city offers plenty of outdoor activities, a great beer scene, a cluster of lakeside attractions and a revitalized neighborhood showcasing handmade goods. You can join friendly Duluthians in a community sauna followed by a dip in cool Amity Creek.
9. Knoxville, Tennessee
High scores: Down-to-earth vibe, live music, outdoor access
You may know Knoxville as home of the University of Tennessee and its orange-and-white tsunami of fandom during sports events. Or you may know it as the host of the 1982 World’s Fair and its distinctive glass tower. But did you know this eastern Tennessee city also offers a burgeoning music scene (watch out Nashville and Memphis!), delightful classic theaters and delicious eats? And there’s a 1,500-acre Urban Wilderness for easy access to outdoor adventure.
8. Grand Rapids, Michigan
High scores: Art and design, beer scene, outdoor activities
With a world-class sculpture park and public art all over town, Grand Rapids is far more than “Beer City USA.” But with more than 100 breweries, distilleries and cideries, Michigan’s second-largest city comes by its beverage moniker honestly. Museums showcase Grand Rapids’ deep design roots, while the Grand River nods to its family-friendly outdoor assets. And a planned amphitheater along the river’s banks is just part of a bigger waterfront revitalization effort.
7. Macon, Georgia
High scores: Musical heritage, cultural attractions, architecture
With museums and a revived studio dedicated to its musical heritage, Macon scores high on cultural attractions and the sorts of local institutions that remain beloved for generations. Macon’s revitalized downtown has made way for new restaurants, bars and a boutique hotel. And with a push to turn a site holding thousands of years of history into Georgia’s first US national park and preserve co-managed by the Muscogee (Creek) Nation, the city is paying attention to how its earliest history speaks to its future.
6. Flagstaff, Arizona
High scores: Dark skies, outdoor activities, scenery, retro vibe
Sunny days and starry nights are big draws in this high-elevation city. Enjoying lovely landscapes and the wonders of the cosmos is easy in Flagstaff, thanks to the San Francisco Peaks, numerous national monuments, the Lowell Observatory and Flagstaff’s status as a Dark Sky City. Route 66 runs through here, where retro hotels cater to travelers stopping in, and downtown has seen a renaissance. The area’s Native American history is another reason to visit.
5. San Luis Obispo, California
High scores: Gorgeous scenery, retro vibe, outdoor activities, wineries
If you’re dreaming of old-school, relaxed California vibes, the super-pricey Bay Area and traffic-choked Southern California wouldn’t be it. But there’s a place figuratively and literally in between that’s a delightful throwback to the chill, 20th-century Golden State. After all, they don’t call San Luis Obispo “SLO” for nothin’. Here, you can indulge in everything from wine trails to hiking trails without a crush of humanity. The stunning natural environment, with the Pacific nearby, is the cherry on top.
4. Portland, Maine
High scores: Next-level food scene, coastal setting, outdoor access
This historic harbor town offers some seriously up-to-date dining alongside classics reflecting Maine’s status as the US lobster capital. The food scene here has put it squarely on the map as a culinary destination, with two new James Beard Awards just added to the city’s collection. You’ll also find a booming craft beer scene and tons of opportunities to get out onto the water or into the woods. Strolling the bustling center offers a window onto centuries of maritime history and a Victorian-era rebirth.
3. Tacoma, Washington
High scores: Stunning setting, outdoor access, arts scene
City settings don’t get much better than this. Tacoma’s location between Puget Sound and Mount Rainier makes for exceptional outdoor recreation in and around town. There are some pretty spectacular sights in the city, too, thanks to Dale Chihuly, the art glass master and Tacoma native. At the Museum of Glass, exhibits and glassblowers at work in its hot shop tell the story of the medium. And flightseeing tours will give you a good look at the sacred ancestral lands of the Puyallup Tribe.
2. Providence, Rhode Island
High scores: Art, architecture, design, food scene
Providence’s dazzling downtown riverfront exists thanks to decades of ambitious work relocating rivers and roads to beautify and preserve the city. Downtown’s rivers have been dancing in the firelight of beloved art installation WaterFire for decades, and public art is everywhere. The city is also home to the renowned Rhode Island School of Design and its museum. Architecture buffs will find plenty to admire, and Providence’s culinary history (with top-notch seafood and Italian cuisine) and diverse restaurants mean you’ll be treated to a global feast.
1. Richmond, Virginia
High scores: Cultural attractions, dining and drinks, intriguing neighborhoods
Richmond, Virginia – or “RVA” – deserves more of the national attention enjoyed by that other capital city a couple of hours to the north. Richmond earns high scores for its top-notch museums and dynamic neighborhoods, and it’s taking a hard look at its complicated history. Plus, it’s got a diverse, chef-driven food scene, more than 30 breweries and ready access to surrounding wine country. And there’s a nearly year-round lineup of festivals — mark your calendars for the Richmond Folk Festival in the fall.
Editor's note: Richmond-born Kari Smith’s writing journey began as a songwriter in Nashville, Tennessee, for a decade before returning to her native Virginia, where she shifted to writing magazine articles and professional blogs.
